SUNDAY POST FEB 22-28
COVER STORY
HIMANSHU GURU
The sight of a paper packet (called ‘pudia’ or ‘thunga’ in local parlance) stuffed with puffed rice tossed in finely chiselled onion, thinly diced boiled potato, an assortment of masalas and spicy ingredients is highly tempting. No foodie can deny that the culinary experience of enjoying mouth-watering masala mudhi is greatly satisfying. An inextricable part of Oriya food and culture, the humble mudhi titillates taste buds when had either with warm milk, sugar and banana cubes or with spicy nuts, chopped onion, ginger, and cucumber. The craving for a helping of tangy masala mudhi is universal: owners of roadside stalls in the capital city that cater to thousands of hungry souls admit they do a pretty brisk business through the evening.
Mudhi lovers have their own tastes: some like it hot and spicy while others prefer the strong aroma of mustard oil mixed in it. They have a fascination for this ‘mudhiwallah’ or that depending on how well the man – who stirs all the ingredients in his pot after sprinkling mustard oil that has a raw mongo flavour akin to that of mango pickle – understands the craving and preference of the customer. ‘Jhal mudhi’ is a delicacy and the way it is prepared in Orissa is distinctively unique. People of all classes and gastronomic preferences love ‘jhal mudhi’; but although many people like a liberal sprinkling of tiny green chilly rings in their mudhi others avoid having it that hot. Even a genial preparation with a little sugar or salt is delightful. Some of the popular recipes are ‘masala mudhi’, ‘aloo mudhi’, ‘baramaja’, ‘bhuja pudia’, etc. The Oriya couplet about mudhi – ‘jhal mudhi khali mudhi nadia, barasha pagaku bhari badhia’ – reflects its immense popularity in the state.
Mudhi is a form of puffed grain commonly had for breakfast and is an all-time hit snack. It is usually made by heating rice kernels under high pressure in the presence of steam, though the method of manufacture varies. In Orissa, it is made by heating rice in a sand-filled oven which is usually referred to as ‘machine mudhi’. But ‘desi mudhi’ prepared by village women in earthen pots (called ‘handi’) has a unique taste.
‘Bhel puri’ is hugely popular in north India and ‘talakadu’ in the south. In Madhya Pradesh, the same snack is referred to as ‘parmal’ and is often eaten with sev. In some temples of north India, mudhi is offered to the deities, but the tastes vary. The people of Orissa and neighbouring West Bengal enjoy mudhi a lot and even non-resident Oriyas are of the opinion that although pizza, burger, pasta and noodles have invaded our plates and fast food joints have mushroomed over the years, jhal mudhi still retains its irresistible appeal. In the United States and Europe, puffed rice is served with milk as a breakfast cereal. Many chocolate bars there sell puffed rice and puffed rice cakes as low-calorie snacks.
The ingredients of jhal mudhi are chopped onion, coconut, tomato, cereals, coriander leaf, mustard oil, salt, garlic shreds and pickles of varying flavours. The finely chopped ingredients are mixed with puffed rice and a little lemon juice is added to the preparation topped off with either a little sev, or crunchy nuts, or tender coconut sticks. Crushed puffed rice with sugar or jaggery is also very tasty. Pilgrims of Sabarimala pack puffed rice in their Irumudikettu along with jaggery meant to be offered to Lord Ayyappan. Mudhi with spicy mutton curry is a popular dish of Mayurbhanj district which is served to guests in parties. It is also a popular breakfast item there. Puffed rice is also mixed with jaggery to prepare the sweet and crunchy mudhi laddu.
Jhal mudhi sellers have their wheel carts (locally called ‘thela’) on which are displayed a variety of lip-smacking items and ingredients filled in separate containers. However, in local and long-distance express trains they carry their own baskets with them or tin boxes with the ingredients stored in separate plastic containers. In other places, especially in the anterior pockets of the state, mudhi sellers carry a wooden box placed above the rear wheel of their bicycles. It is a pity that hotels and restaurants don’t have jhal mudhi on their menu list.
Mudhi sellers not only earn a livelihood but are also popular among their customers. Nakul Patnaik is a popular jhal mudhi vendor in Bolangir district whose stall lies in front of Ramai Talkies in the middle of the town. You ask anyone in Bolangir town and chances are he/she is an ardent Nakul fan. The man always wears a smile and this is one reason why customers flock to his stall in hundreds, especially in the evening. Although his is apparently a non-descript stall, Nakul’s mudhi travels in polythene bags across the state and even abroad. Nakul’s specialty is the onion and radish slices dipped in savoury chutney offered on a piece of paper with a ‘pudia’ of jhal mudhi. Sunday POST spoke to some of his fans:
Surya Behera is test manager in Agilis International, a software company in New Delhi. He is from Bolangir. When asked about Nakul’s jhal mudhi the young professional said, “Nakul is a simple guy with a big heart. When I was in school, Class VI or VII, I used to dispose of all the old newspapers every month. I came to know about Nakul and his ‘thela’ near our house. He used to sell bhuja prepared in his own inimitable style. He would prepare sumptuous bhuja pudia for me when I gave him the old newspapers. Gradually, a friendship developed and I used to spend hours with him in the evenings. Afterwards, during my college days most of my friends used to flock to his stall for a helping or two and his ‘thela’ became our favourite ‘adda’ joint. The best part was Nakul never asked for money; for him customer satisfaction, and not profit, was the topmost priority. He shares a good relationship with his customers. He also tries out new recipes with mudhi. His last discovery was ‘singda-bhuja’. Besides, he is the man with a big heart. You can hardly find a customer who is dissatisfied with him. I left Bolangir 15 years back for my studies and job and always missed his bhuja pudia, and whenever I go there he prepares a packet (2 to 3 kg) of fried bhuja on the day before my departure and delivers it in the railway station. Hats off to his commitment of catering to the tastes of customers.
Alisha Mishra is a software engineer who lives in Bangalore. She hails from Bolangir. She said, “I call him (Nakul) mamu since my uncles are his friends. He has friends who are lawyers, journalists, doctors, etc. and his social status and esteem are high great thanks to his unique jhal mudhi. And the onion slices he offers with the mudhi is, of course, unique. As the discussion turns on mudhi my friends ask me to take them to a treat to mamu’s place.”
Another ‘mudhiwalla’ Pramod Kumar Patra whose ‘thela’ lies right beside the Ekamra Talkies main gate in Bomikhal, Bhubaneswar has customers coming to his stall daily who are not movie-watchers. He said, “After ‘Mahabatya’ there is no major rush”. His main items are ‘jhal mudhi’, ‘jhal mixture’ and ‘jhal matar’. He keeps peanuts, a variety of mixtures and cereals sold as individual items. He said, “My dada Ramachandra Patra was doing this business in front of Swati, Sriya complex. I started to help him and later started my own shop. I chose this spot some 18 years ago.”
When asked what makes his mudhi special, for which he has a large number of customers, he said, “ ‘Agnya’, ‘bhagamaapa’ (measurement) of items are the main thing. The balanced measurement of the ingredients is the basic thing that forms the taste. I think I do it well and thus have managed to earn customers”. Pramod is the hubby of Rashmita and father of Binod and Binita. He takes party orders. According to him the main season of jhal mudhi is winter.
R Mahendar Reddy is a staff of the RB palace in Bomikhal. He is a regular customer of Pramod. He prefers him for his tasty mudhi. “I am coming to Pramod’s stall for the last two years. His preparation is very good. Especially the ratio of onion and masala he uses is the most appropriate which gives a splendid taste. I also ask my employer and friends to come to Pramod’s stall,” he said.
Sanjeev Kumra Sabat is a trainer in a reputed career coaching centre in the capital city. He teaches CAT aspirants. He intimated he is a fan of Pramod and visits his stall often. “I am having jhal mudhi here for the last five years. The best thing about Pramod is he keeps fresh items and the combination of the different ingredients of the jhal mudhi is perfect. Besides, the price is also reasonable. I sometimes take a parcel for my family and visit the stall with friends,” he said.
