Notice the difference between a north Indian ‘laddu’ with a tough exterior and a Bengali ‘chhana bora’ which looks intimidating from the outside; but just take a bite and an ocean of sweet syrup explodes. The gastronomic preferences of the Oriyas and Bengalis for a variety of
sweetmeats also point to their overall cultural and temperamental affinity
Himanshu Guru
It is impossible to understand the culture and heritage of a people without delving into their culinary habits. The sense of taste and the varied satisfactions that the tongue craves for are indicative of the mood and temperament of a race, or a group of people bound by geographical barriers who share a common language. The culinary preferences of Indians belonging to different regions of the country are varied: while some like it tangy and hot others prefer an ounce or two of sugar in the lives.
Not only Orissa but the people of the entire eastern part of the country have an identifiable affinity for sweet and sugary stuff. Notice the difference between a north Indian ‘laddu’ with a tough exterior and a Bengali ‘chhana bora’ which looks intimidating from the outside, but just take a bite and an ocean of sweet syrup explodes. The gastronomic preferences of the Oriyas and Bengalis for a variety of sweetmeats also point at their overall cultural and religious character – peace-loving, rich in art, music and cultural heritage, intensely aware of tradition and language as markers of identity, and willing to expand their intellectual horizons to reach a higher level of perfection in culture. The syrupy balm of mysticism and the religious cult of Bhakti are entwined in the psyche of these people and their lifestyle and habits reflect their general cultural traits.
Typical Oriya sweets like ‘chhena poda’ and ‘chhena gaja’ are very popular. Although these delicacies bear a characteristically local flavour, many typically north Indian sweets like ‘peda’ and others made from pure milk like ‘rabidi’, ‘rasmalei’, ‘kalakand’, ‘rasa kadamba’, etc. are hugely popular in the state. The peda is preferred due to its unique taste and affordable price. These days, trained chefs are coming up with new varieties by experimenting widely with milk (in different forms) including sugar, cashew and other ingredients. But the peda has its own fan club.
It is true that akin to other industries and sectors the food industry too has been invaded by big brands like Ganguram, Haldiram and Dama Maharaj that have a number of outlets across the country including in Orissa; but many small sweet shops, food junctions and hotels which are financially puny are extremely popular. For example, the peda of Nara Hotel in Bolangir town is widely known for its heavenly taste.
The hotel, a very inconspicuous entity in the middle of the town, didn’t have a signboard for years. Its owner’s name was Narottam Sahu and it was popular as ‘Nara Hotel’. Although you’d get to see a variety of tempting sweetmeats neatly arranged in trays through the glass cover the peda, as the locals would tell you, is the one you should sniff out the moment you step into the hotel. It doesn’t have ample dining space and only a small kitchen but caters to a big volume of customers in the town and district as well as other districts. You want a kg of peda neatly stuffed into a paper box? Place your order a day in advance and make a payment of Rs 280.
Narottam Sahu (65) started the venture in 1977. Later, his two sons helped him look after the hotel which lies at Bikram Chowk. Interestingly, the owner has not adopted any modern or technical means to give a twist to the original recipe or to promote his products; but any day you’d see a bunch of customers waiting at the counter to place their orders. When Sunday POST tiptoed into Nara’s hotel and asked him to pose for the camera with a neatly arranged tray of peda in his hand, the man refused! Instead he picked up one from the tray and retorted, “Try one Nara peda. I only endeavour to give satisfaction to my customers. Publicity means very little to me.” Only after we succeeded in convincing him that we were bowled over by the peda and wanted to know more about it that he agreed to cooperate.
Starting from politicians and businessmen of the district to students and wage labourers, all alike are Nara’s fans.
The Oriya Peda
The peda is a well-known sweet item in India but the taste differs across regions. Certainly, the taste of the Oriya peda is distinct. It is usually prepared as thick, semi-soft cubes. The main ingredients are ‘khoa’, sugar and traditional flavours like cardamom seeds, pistachio nuts and saffron. The colour varies from a creamy white to caramel.
Peda is not typical of Orissa like ‘arisha pitha’, ‘manda’, ‘chakuli’, ‘chaulabara’, etc. As per reports, origin of the peda is credited to Uttar Pradesh and the variety available in the city of Mathura in that state was considered to be the best. Perhaps as these two states have a large section of people who depend on animal rearing for their livelihood this may be the reason.
Simultaneously, the peda of the province of Saurashtra in Gujarat and its centres like Sihor, Rajkot, Palitana and Bhavnagar is also widely popular and considered a standard of elegant taste. The tradition and practice of making pedas can be traced back to the late 1800s in Sihor, and it became popular in the 20th century. Along with Rajkot and Bhavnagar now, there are several distinct varieties of peda. It is used as an offering in temples and during holy festivals. In Orissa people love to present a ‘dabba’ of peda when they visit somebody’s house during festivals.
Preparation
Prepare fresh khoa by boiling and stirring milk till it becomes thick. The khoa is cooked when milk becomes dry and lump-like. Add ghee to khoa in a pan and saute till it turns brown. Then add some cardamom powder for better taste and leave it to cool. When cooled, mix the sugar till well-blended and form desired moulds. Leave for a while and serve.
Peda Aficionados
Smita Pattanaik: I tasted the peda of Nara hotel when I was a child. After marriage I started living in Rugudipada in my hubby’s place, but my maternal place in Tikrapara was close to his hotel. I know Nara peda is very popular. Even I have tasted the sweet at his residence, as his house was very close to ours. During festivals we used to buy a bulk of peda from him to distribute among guests. Whenever I offer Nara’s peda to someone, he definitely asks where I have got it from.
Bhikari Suna:Bolangir town is famous for its tasty snacks. Actually, certain delicacies at certain food junctions are very popular thanks to their mouth-watering taste. I got a chance to have some Nara peda when I studied in PR High School. During Ganesh puja we brought peda from him for worship in the school. Back then we had to order in advance. His sale vividly rises during festival but it does not mean that during the other months he sits idle. His business swings throughout the year.
Dilip Meher: I am a regular customer of Nara hotel. A few years back when I came to Bolangir for my graduation I went on hunting for popular food of the town. Earlier, I had heard much about the peda of Nara Hotel, ‘bhuja’ of Nakul, ‘patrapoda’ of Garden Inn Hotel, ‘pakhala’ of Rajmahal Hotel and ‘chaulabara’. After tasting all these delicacies I realised that what I had heard about the culinary riches of Bolangir was very true.
Rajendra Mishra: Nara’s peda is no doubt very tasty. I don’t like sweets. But his peda is so tasty you just cannot brush a plate aside even if you are not a big fan of sweets. These days I bring his peda during functions of the District Bar Association because I am an advocate and, sometimes, take initiative, to organise parties. Even my friends from other districts are fans of his peda and whenever they visit my place we visit his hotel.