Trend: Derma treatments

For generations, skin beautification has been one of the many latent dreams of every woman (and even man). But of late, it has actualised into sitting-based, high-end cosmetic or dermatology treatments. P S Bhavana compiles trend-based inputs with know-how from three experts.

 

Dr Rekha Sheth, Dermatologist, Mumbai

“We see anti-aging and aesthetic (as preventive) treatments becoming more popular in 2015. They help in getting rid of acne and scarring, and diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Laser treatments, especially laser hair-removal treatments, are also growing in popularity. Other treatments, such as RF Microneedling, provide effective dermal skin remodeling to revive and rejuvenate skin, while removing dry, flaky skin.
We offer derma treatments such as Gold Thread Lift—a form of thread-lift surgery that uses threads of gold to firm up sagging facial skin; Cellular MatrixTM—an advanced ‘vampire’ facial that uses a unique combination of Autologous Platelet-Rich Plasma and Hyaluronic Acid technologies to ensure radiant skin; RF Microneedling—uses thin needles to provide skin tightening and resurfacing.
We also provide advance cosmetology-based, anti-aging facials like Stemcellogist TXTM, which helps boost the skin’s cell function by targeting the length of telomeres to address DNA damage, and anti-pigmentation facials like White NeurogistTM, which provides an intensive whitening solution to stubborn pigmentation and brown spots with a three-pronged approach: Repair, Treat and Prevent.”
Dr Rickson Pereira, Dermatologist, Dermatherapie Skin, Hair & Laser Centre, Mumbai
Summer beauty / cosmetic trends for the season are: “Subtle changes in appearance to appear refreshed and young without significantly altering the appearance. There is a trend towards non-invasive or minimally-invasive treatments.
A) Non-invasive treatments: Are device-based treatments, which help tighten the skin without surgery or downtime. They can be started in the late 20s or early 30s, or later to delay or reverse the signs of early aging. These include:

 Radiofrequency: This warms up the skin and deeper tissues by gently tightening the collagen and reducing subcutaneous fat. New collagen is produced which causes firming of the skin. Useful in the treatment of jowls, sagging neck, areas of excessive fat and reduction in cellulite. Multiple treatment sessions at 1-3 week intervals are required to get desirable results.

 High-intensity focused ultrasound or ultherapy: Ultrasound waves are used to lift, tighten and tone the skin, along with fat reduction. Treatment may be associated with some discomfort. Results are seen within 3 months of the treatment. Sessions need to be done once or twice in a year.

Cryolipolysis: This is a body-contouring technique designed to reduce areas of stubborn fat. This technology involves use of controlled cooling to eliminate unwanted fat cells without surgery or downtime. Results are lasting and treatments are repeated once or twice in a year.

Lasers: Newer lasers with better safety profiles and improved efficacy are being introduced to treat pigmentation, acne scars and aging skin.

B) Minimally-invasive treatments: The use of botulinum toxin and fillers continue to grow. The focus is on making small changes frequently, so that there is no sudden change in appearance. Overly-filled cheeks and lips, and frozen expressionless face, is out. Fillers are increasingly being used to fill the temples, jawline and chin to restore the harmony of the face that is lost due to aging. Fillers are used to beautify the cheeks by giving high cheek bones without too much volume. Botulinum toxin is used in lower doses to only soften expression lines and retain expressions. Absorbable PDO (polydioxanone) surgical threads are increasingly being used to build collagen in the skin, to tighten it without adding too much volume. Men are increasingly seeking cosmetic treatments to change their look to appear younger and confident. Younger and senior patients are seeking cosmetic procedures to beautify themselves.

Your daily-use products must consist of the following:

Rejuvenation: A product containing a vitamin A derivative (retinoid) or alpha hydroxy acid or vitamin C should be used at bedtime in a cream or serum formulation. It should be applied on the face and neck. These products help remove dead skin, biostimulate the skin cells, improve the thickness of the skin, and restore radiance and glow.
n Moisturiser: A moisturiser not only hydrates the skin but also help in the skin’s exfoliation process. Regular use of moisturiser can reduce skin inflammation and delay the signs of aging. Oil-in-water formulations or water-based moisturisers are preferred for summers.
Sunscreen: The UV light of the sun breaks down collagen and elastin in the skin causing it to lose volume and deteriorate in texture and skin tone. A sunscreen which blocks both UVA and UVB rays with an SPF of 50 or above is preferred. It is important to add layers of sunscreen every 2-3 hours if constantly outdoors. Dry touch, emulsion or spray formulation sunscreens are preferred in the summers.
Dr Rekha Sheth, Dermatologist, Mumbai
“Speaking of beauty and cosmetic trends, I would say ‘minimal’ is the word for this season. Being minimalist in your approach ensures you look stunning yet natural; that should be no overdose of make-up or styling. The focus has to be on maintaining an even skin tone, ensuring that your skin’s flaws like dark circles, hollow eyes, and dark spots are minimised, and that your skin looks healthy. It is recommended to just highlight your eyes or lips a bit and not indulge in heavy duty make-up.
Here are a few simple skin procedures suitable for the summer skin:
 Microdermabrasion or Skin Polishing: In summers the skin is in need of exfoliation, as pollution and dust particles stick to it making it dull and lifeless. The harsh sun also contributes to tanning of the upper layer of the skin. Microdermabrasion is a good and absolutely safe procedure to achieve a thorough exfoliation. In this procedure tiny crystals are sprayed and rolled over the skin to gently remove the dull and damaged layer of the skin. However, this should only be done by a trained doctor. Cost: INR 1,500-2,500 (the cost may vary according to the number of sittings needed).

Mesotherapy: It is the second best procedure for summers. It is a non-invasive procedure, which used to supply vital nutrients to the inner layers of the skin. In this procedure we use nutritional ingredients and deliver them into the skin to achieve desired results depending upon the skin’s needs. In summers, the skin may need brightening agents like multiple vitamins and anti-oxidants to fight free radical damage. Special electroporation machines are used to perform this procedure. The products used are specially formulated in ionized form to be able to penetrate the skin. Cost: INR 2,000-2,500 (the cost may vary according to the number of sittings and customisation needed).
n Skin Peels: This is another popular and useful procedure, which helps exfoliate the dead cells of the skin and reveal a fresh new layer of skin (healthier, lighter, radiant and free of pigmentation and dark spots). This procedure again should be done only under the supervision of a trained doctor; it should never be done at home or at salons. We see a lot of cases of skin damage when the procedure is done at salons by untrained hands. Cost: Estimated INR 2,000.
n Fillers: Dermal Fillers serve multiple purposes for skin and beauty. Among them are hydrating the summer-parched skin and filling up under-eye hollows in a natural looking way. A lot of young girls these days develop dark troughs under the eyes giving them an unhealthy appearance. They then need to cover them up under make-up which is not a great idea. Hyaluronic acid-based fillers like Juvederm can be effectively used to fill up these under eye hollows and give your face a healthy and bright appearance. Summer can often leave your skin parched, too, so fillers also deeply hydrate the skin and replenish lost moisture. Cost: Varies dramatically depending upon how the procedure is customised for the patient.
Daily products/exercises that are a must for summer:
n Cleansing: Summer tends to affect the skin in multiple ways. One is the heat and humidity that has a scorching effect other is the spurt in infections. Even if you have oily skin, the summer can leave it parched and dry. Use a facewash for oily skin in the evening, but in the mornings; it is better to use a facewash that suits normal skin. For example, Ponds, Nivea, Garnier. Using a calming and toning agent at the end of the day also helps keep the skin cool.
n Sun Protection: Use sunscreen of SPF at least 30. If you have a greater tanning tendency, use SPF 50. And make sure you re-apply every 4 hours or so.
n Cooling Skin: The skin can get irritated in the summer heat. It helps to cool and soothe it down. This can easily be done by dabbing it with cold water. One way to do is to soak a napkin in cold water and dab it repeatedly on your facial skin.
Ingredients to look for in daily summer skin products:
Look for moisturisers that are rich in vitamin A, C and E and antioxidants to help your skin fight the heat and free radical damage in summer. Botanical ingredients like green tea extracts, aloe vera, etc can be soothing.

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