BHUBANESWAR: Women and jewellery are inseparable. It’s in the nature of most women to adorn themselves with eye catching jewellery. There is no denying the fact that jewellery has undergone a tremendous change through modern designs. However, ancient jewellery especially belonging to the tribal communities is making a huge comeback into the market. Orissa Post interacted with several ladies as well as tribal jewellery researchers to delve deeper into the subject.
Adhuna Barik, a member of a tribe from Keonjhar, said, “Tribal jewellery espouses a statement of style and good living. People of the Bastia tribe believe that wearing these jewelleries brings us good luck. From Pahuda to notha (nose ring), each member of the community must wear these after she turns 15. My mother has four sets of silver jewellery which she keeps on wearing throughout the year.”
Avantika Garabadu, a tribal jewellery dealer in the city, said, “One should have such pieces as these are priceless. Basically, there are two kinds of costumers. The first kind looks up to celebrities for style cues and the other kind is bothered about craftsmanship. The latter look for something fine and intricate and are inspired by traditional art. Those people are less bothered about what looks good on them because they understand the value of the product and carry them very well.
Tribal jewellery researcher Sharmistha singh said, “Inspired by tribal fashion, modern designers are replicating it and selling such jewellery at a high price. During my research in Odisha, I found that Kondhs form the largest tribal group in the state. There are multiple tribes with a rich taste in jewellery like Desia, Dongria, Kutia and Kui among others. Khonda women are very stylish and they use as many as fifty variations of hairclips made up of iron, brass, copper and silver.”
Girls in tribal communities get their nose and ears pierced when they are still babies. This custom is not just for decoration as it is believed that the process would provide them protection against evil spirits. The bells donned by kids are also meant to keep evil spirits away. Kondh girls also wear coin necklaces made of mostly 50 paise and 1 rupee coins. This particular piece of jewellery is to showcase one’s financial status. Women of the Saora tribe can be easily recognized by the large wooden ear discs that they wear. The upper part of their ears is also decorated with numerous rings.
A very unique variety of ornament is adorned by the women of Gadaba tribe. During her marriage, a Gadaba woman receives a thick aluminium necklace which she then wears for the rest of her life. She doesn’t take them off even during sleep. These are complemented with thick bangles and enormous copper wire ear-hoops which are supported by a cord.”